Gorgeous Goa part II

Well, we've spent the past four nights staying at the Sea Paradise resort in Mandrem which probably isn't far off paradise.

The accommodation was probably a bit more than we were expecting at 1000 RP a night (fourteen pounds) but a) prices have probably gone up in the 3 years since my lonely planet was printed b) it's still damn cheap and c)there are hardly any tourists right now (the taxi driver we spoke to told us that at the same time last year he worked flat out all day/night and when we went in his taxi, we were the first customers for 3 days).

Anyway, we manage to barter the accommodation down to 900 RP a night and are quite happy with that.

We spend our days rolling out of bed to the scrummy breakfasts and then ramble a few steps onto the glorious sandy beach with bath-warm water.

the food at the resort has been amazing and with an average cost of two pounds for a main course it makes for a very cheap few days.

There is a real family atmosphere about the small resort and all the staff (and dogs) are super friendly. Blackie in particular (a lab/collie cross) took a liking to us and used to lay by our table at dinner and follow us onto the beach when we went.

Our other friend was Fred the frog who took up home either on or in the toilet which was quite funny! He was only the size of my thumb so not likely to cause any trouble.

It's amazing how time flys (although unfortunately I've lost my watch so have to keep asking Ian what the time is!)

After saying goodbye to Sea Paradise, Ian has swept me away to the very North of Goa to spoil me for two nights at the exclusive Terekhol Fort Resort.

The Fort Tiracol Heritage Hotel is situated inside a fort with a beautiful chapel inside overlooking the sea. The hotel has been featured by the Guardian, and it's easy to see why - it's a really unique place to stay with stunning views of the beach from the fort windows and rooftop restaurant.

The fort is reached by a small ferry that takes five minutes to cross, and then there is a 2km taxi ride to the fort. The same ferry takes you from the fort to the gorgeous Kerim beach opposite.

It's so remote, it doesn't even feel odd when the power keeps going out!

It's all really beautiful - I've never stayed anywhere so unusual.

From the Rooftop restaurant at breakfast you can watch dolphins playing out at sea, jumping and diving...it's amazing!

One morning we were joined by a school trip party who found us fascinating and we found ourselves having several photographs taken...you feel like a celebrity here!!! We even got interviewed when one of the teachers started asking our views on the terrorist activity here and how it could be stopped!

The whole fort seems to be streaming with monkeys which is really funny! It was a bit of a shock though when we thought we saw a monkey walk out from under our bed and onto the balcony!

Kerim beach is a long sandy beach with amazing surf. It's an almost empty beach...I think we counted about another 6 tourists all day on the whole beach! There's a tiny restaurant shack which serves beer for about a pound, coke for 40 pence and a bowl of noodles for one pound twenty five!

We struck up a deal with the owner of the restaurant on a taxi back to Goa Airport. Our hotel wanted 2000 RP and the restaurant did it for 1200 RP! Bargain!

We have now left Goa. After an hour flight we arrived back in Mumbai. We decided to get a Tuk Tuk from the airport who said he could take us to our hotel for 200 rupees. It sounded like a bargain as we paid 550 in a taxi last time.

We had been in the vehicle for about a minute when he said he couldn't go into the fort area so we would have to get a taxi for the last bit. As our hotel isn't far from there we decided that was still OK. Two minutes later and he's pulled over at the side of a motorway by a taxi and trying to rip us off for 200 rupees when the meter hadn't even reached 30 !! Ian took control and gave the guy a piece of his mind and we walked away after giving the guy 30 rupees and trying to find a taxi.

The journey back to the hotel from the airport in traffic takes about an hour and a half, and we found a lovely taxi driver who took us for 300 rupees so we actually ended up doing well in the end!

We've both said that work feels a lifetime ago, so this holiday has probably done us both the world of good :-)

Gorgeous Goa!!

Post by Ian, comments by Em in blue
From dirty Delhi to gorgeous Goa! - this post was drafted on the balcony of our beach fronted, stilted, beach hut in Mandrem, Goa - but more of that later!!

After getting back from Agra we checked the internet only to find an article about Indian airports being on heightened alert with advice to arrive early due to the extra security checks. DAMN - there goes our lay in!!

So we got up early, had a quick breakfast, checked out of our hotel and made our way to the metro station laden with our rucksacks. We'd had this bright idea that by getting the metro to the end of the line that we'd be closer to the airport. However, upon arriving at the last metro station and asking a tuk-tuk driver we find that we're now 14km from the airport which we're sure is further away than when we we at our hotel! Oh well, the journey only cost 128 rupees (1:60 ukp) for both of us!

We get to the airport and as we go to check in we walk past one of the many plasma screens showing Indian news and we see a report about gunfire at IGI Airport. Em remarked "I wonder where that is?". Then the penny dropped - it was Indira Ghandi International airport where we were about to check in!!! Does trouble follow us around or what??! In fairness it was another case of the media sensationalising the story with very little evidence to back it up. Gun shots had allegedly been heard at the airport and a car had apparently driven through a security checkpoint without stopping.

Security is incredibly hot in India with armed guards with a variety of weapons ranging from pistols and shotguns to fully automatic rifles patrolling anything from the railway system (even on the trains), the Taj Mahal, the metro, etc. We've lost count of the number of times that we've been frisked, walked through metal detectors and had our bags checked (which was a pain with our rucksacks in the metro). I have to laugh though as they give special treatment to women...think women only queues, women only security lines, women only seats on the train...FAB! although in all honesty, being a white female still makes me invisible and women push right past me in queues as if I don't exist!

So whilst killing time at the airport Em spotted a McDonalds and given that it had been hours since breakfast we succumbed to a packet of fries - but we did resist the temptation to have them Indian style!! It's amazing how much more Western influence Delhi has compared to Mumbai - all of the big names are here. I would like to add that I have no intention of eating an Indian Mcdonalds...surely french fries don't count?? I have eaten Indian food this whole holiday! I'm not going to want a curry for ages when I get back! Steph, you'll be pleased to hear, I have become rather fond of Paneer and the dishes here are amazing.

Anyway, I digress!! So we board our Kingfisher flight to Goa. Kingfisher is quite a smart airline - hell they even have metal knives and forks. We had to sit through a cheesy promotional video though telling us how the chairman individually picks all of the Kingfisher staff - yeah right!!!

After 2.5 hours we dis-embark the plane to temperatures of 33 degC. We were slightly apprehensive of how we'd get to our chosen resort as the Lonely Planet was a little thin on information (to put it mildly!!). And to make things worse, I was in charge of the Goa leg of our trip. Don't worry, he's done a good job...it's beautiful!

Whilst I'd done quite a lot of research on the best resorts I was unable to make contact with my final choice so I was winging things a bit! (but knew there were plenty of other options if my first choice was fully booked).

Luckily there was a pre-paid taxi booth at the airport which avoids all the haggling so we got a taxi to Mandrem. The 65 km journey cost us fourteen pounds! Just to point out there was no air conditioning and I probably lost 14 pounds in sweat! I thought I might just stop breathing I was so hot!

Ninety minutes, several emergency stops and a few more grey hairs later, we arrive at the idyllic Sea paradise resort.

We're shown a couple of huts - one on the ground, one on stilts - we opt for the stilted hut which has all of the (cough) mod cons, (ahem) en-suite, running (cold) water, power and light (although the electrics look pretty damn scary to me!). So we have a shower, a drink and take a walk along the beach as the sun sets...and this is where I return to the start, writing this on our balcony with the sea lapping on the beach.

Please revisit our Delhi pos as we have now found faster internet and have posted some more pics!

Dirty Delhi

Another super hectic city...this time Delhi.

After getting to our hotel late on Tuesday evening, and both feeling tired and a bit irritable, it was nice to have a relaxed day in Delhi on Wednesday.

Luckily, given our hotel is 30km from the centre, there is a fantastic metro system. I think this is going to be an amazing step forward for the city - phase 2 is currently being worked on and will eventually spread out past the airport.

And we've just read about Phase three that adds another 128Km to the infrastructure - the amount that is being invested is phenomenal. What is even more impressive is how cheap it is - a 30 minute journey cost us approximately 30p (for both of us!!)

Delhi is made up of three key areas...Central Delhi, Old Delhi, and Connaught Place, and we're in none of them!

We get the metro (16 stops!) to Ravi Chowk which is in Connaught Place...we're headed for the Government Emporium so we can look around for shopping inspiration. I've never been so harrassed by so many people in all my life and it actually begins to take its toll after a while. "No" obviously does not mean "No" over here!!

What was even funnier was that within 5 minutes we had two people come up to us an comment on my shoes!! Apparently they're cool - Mmm - never considered myself a style icon!! Also it was sad that virtually everyone was directing us to a private travel agency for a map of the city but when we got there is was just another Indian scam - they had no maps and were just interested in selling us trips or booking hotels....

Having gained no inspiration, we head to Old Delhi so we can visit the Red Fort..it's really pretty and we spend quite a while there wandering through the grounds.

After this, we head for Karim's...a restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet. Food reasonable, atmosphere odd (after all we really are a novelty!).

We spend the afternoon walking through the streets/bazaars. It's so full of people, animals and rubbish, it's overwhelming.

We head onto Jama Masjid - the largest mosque in India. It's fantastic to visit, but it's just a shame the reception is a bit hostile when you refuse a guide or refuse to tip someone just for telling you a couple of things.

It was at this point that the penny dropped - I realised that India sees Westerners as walking cash machines. It's funny how we get harrassed for tips and get charged 10-20 times more than native Indians. Yes I know that we earn more BUT we'd never get away with that in the UK!!

Finally we head back to Connaught Place where we walk down Janpath, a street with masses of gift/trinket shops...it's like walking into accessorize but probably about a tenth of the price!

Any blokes reading this must empathise with me - imagine 20+ accessorize shops and going in to virtually every one. But I was very patient as necklaces are fascinating - NO, really, they are!!! :-)

I'm impressed I don't buy anything...there isn't anything overly special I think I need or want, so it doesn't seem worth buying for no reason.

We head back to the hotel extremely tired...where we promptly get lost coming out of the metro, but do however find a supermarket where we are able to buy a few bits.

By 12.30pm we finally get to bed, which isn't early enough given we have to get up at 5.00am the next day for our day trip to Agra.

I struggle to get up the next day, thinking I should be having a lie in as it's a holiday, however you can't come to India and not see the Taj Mahal!!!

After a special early breakfast by the hotel, our taxi drops us at Nizamuddin train station in Delhi fo the 3 hour journey to Agra. Even at 6.30am there are loads of people, bags and boxes at the station...this city never sleeps!

The taxi driver goes through every traffic light on red but that doesn't really surprise us as this country really has no road rules!!

After a pretty uneventful train journey we arrive into Agra train station where we are beseiged by people wanting us to take their taxi or tuk-tuk. Luckily they are pre-paid you can't get ripped off...bargain 52 rupees!!

This is such a shame as my bartering skills are coming along quite nicely!!!

We get a tuk-tuk to the Agra fort..we decide to do this first so we can go late to the Taj Mahal and get the beginning of the sunset.

In all honesty, I was probably more impressed with the Red Fort in Delhi than Agra Fort and there's not much to say about it.

Early afternoon we head to the Taj Mahal...both of us are really excited about the visit!! It doesn't disappoint and just takes your breath away.

The Taj Mahal was built by an emperor as a memorial to his second wife who died giving birth to their 14th child.

The impressive building datss from 1653, after 22 years of construction involving 20,000 workers. It cost the equivalent (in today's money) of US$70 million to build.

The whole building is in perfect symmetry from whatever side you stand on. We spend the whole afternoon lazing in the grounds until the sun starts to go down and you can get the most impressive photos of the Taj reflected in the water at the front of it. My memory card is now full!

The whole touting thing is even endemic in the Taj - the gardeners were trying to make a fast buck from us by trying to show us the best places to take photos or even trying (and I mean TRYING) to take our picture!!)

It's actually quite sad having to leave as it's been an amazing experience, but we have to rush back to the train station for the 6.55pm Taj Express back to Delhi.

What Em neglects to mention is that we get lost (AGAIN) trying to get out of the Taj area as we try to find an ATM and somewhere to eat. We still find it amazing that the locals don't seem to have a clue about there surroundings and where things are.

We eventually find somewhere to eat as recommended by the bible and then start sweating as the food takes ages to come even though we explain that we're rushing for a train. Eventually the food comes and we bolt it down in 2 minutes flat and then run to a tuk-tuk sat waiting outside. We ask him to hot-foot it to the station which was tantamount to suicide as tuk-tuk drivers are lethal at the best of times!!

We're now on our way to GOA for a bit of chill out sunshine to get us nice and relaxed after all the stress! Look forward to updating you soon...

Jostling Jaipur

Blog by Em. Comments by Ian in blue

The last couple of days have been tiring and mad, but extremely good fun. We stayed at the Jaipur Inn for two nights which is about 15 mins walk to the entrance of the city wall. Jaipur is a walled city in the state of Rajasthan (population 2.3 million) and is sometimes known as the pink city because of the dusky pink wall and buildings.

After not sleeping too well on our journey from Udaipur, the first day is a bit frustrating as we're both very tired. We do nothing much apart from wander round the outskirts of the city taking pictures (we seem to have a good collection now!) and trying to find the city palace (and all the locals send us in different directions so it takes us about 3 hours!!!)

The detour around the outskirts is really nice as we get to see a lot of locals just living their lives and get some good pictures to boot. However on more than one occasion we feel a bit like the Pied Piper and end up being followed by a dozen or more excited young kids. It got to the point where we didn't know what to do to get rid of them. I did notice that they kept trying to touch Em's watch so she decided to do the wise thing and take it off. The horrible thing is that you start to suspect everyone given the scams that your read about in the Lonely Planet.

The lack of sleep probably resulted in our two minor panics...firstly, whilst loading up photos I managed to pick up a virus on my memory card and subsequently the USB stick I was saving pictures to. Hopefully I haven't lost any pics!

...and guess what..I end up being chief geek and have to install anti-virus software on the internet machines. It was a good job as one of the machines was riddled with viruses. And Em got roped into writing some house rules for the hotel as they seemed to like us!

The second panic was when Ian lost his day sack (think of this as your life in a bag when you're travelling...passport, tickets, money, camera, ipod, blackberry). In typical bloke style, I thought he probably hadn't looked properly, but he swore blind he'd left it in the internet room at the hotel and got the manager of the hotel involved over the loss!...Eventually found the bag just where he'd left it when we had dinner two hours previous!

OK, I'm a bloke and suffer from bloke-blindness!! :-)

Anyway, day two was much better and we both had a great day shopping, taking photos and fighting our way through the hundreds of people that stop us each day (you won't believe how many times I say "hello" in one day...getting a bit sick of it now!)

My best purchase of the day is the most amazing highly sequined and emroidered wall hanging (about 1.5m x 1m) bartered down from £60 to £20. I love it!

The worst thing about the purchase was that all of the shopkeepers saw us with a bag showing that we had already made another purchase so they were even keener to get us into their shops to show us their wares.

The funniest thing has to be Em in her element when she meets a guy trying to sell Indian sweets who's studying pharmacy and wants to come to the UK. Em took great delight in explaining all about Chemist + Druggist and Search Medica :-)

Patrick...I hope you're paying attention...all the marketing I'm doing, even when I'm not at work!!! I haven't forgotten my appraisal is on the 16th December!!!

Although the poverty is obviously a huge problem here, the people seem genuinely happy with life and are always smiling. It's amazing how a few pence makes all the difference. Last night we took a tuk-tuk to a restaurant and it cost just 1.50 (inc tip!), for the man to take us, wait outside whille we had dinner and then drive us back. He was very sweet and it made me sad to think how little these people have.

Ian and I have been marking the country out of ten as we go along....my rating has definitely reached 10...it's one of the most amazing places I've been to and I'm sure I'll want to come back again!

There's a strange heirarchy here on the bus front. The private bus company that runs the buses to Delhi have three classes - The Volvo, A/C and Deluxe. We end up getting the deluxe which is more than adequate as Em says.

We get to the bus station and do not have quite enough money to get the two bus tickets as our hotel would not accept credit cards and we ended up using nearly all our cash. We decide there must be an ATM nearby so see if we can find it before we buy tickets...it's the State Bank...nightmare...for some reason this bank does not accept international cards...5 minutes later we find Punjab bank...that doesn't take international cards either...eventually we've missed the bus we wanted to get but have found an ATM and get the next bus at 11am.

So sadly we leave Jaipur behind and head for Delhi on our 'deluxe' bus for the six hour journey (bit of a bargain for £4 each!)

The journey actually is quite comfortable and the time passes quickly. We stop for 30 minutes at lunchtime and indulge in mcvities digestive biscuits, crisps, mars bar and ice cream...there does not seem to be much else to eat.

One thing that that I noticed on the news stand whilst we had lunch was a copy of Top Gear magazine - Jeremy Clarkson would be proud.

We arrive into the Delhi bus terminal at 5pm. It's just an hour before it gets dark so we want to get to our hotel. Things start to go downhill...we get told our hotel is 30km away...at first we think the tuk tuk driver is lying so we walk away. After asking a few people it seems he was right...2 hours later we get to our hotel!

I feel a bit miserable, partly because I'm tired but also because we've paid a lot for the hotel (eighty pounds a night) so to be so far from the centre is a bit of a pain. Additionally the tuk tuk driver quoted us 250 rupees and then tried to put the price up when we got to the hotel and we had to argue with him to get our change.

Well, before we wrap up we'll update you on the animals that we've seen in the cities that we've visited so far. Cats, Dogs, Mice, Rats, Squirrel-like creatures, Gecko, Chickens, Goats, Pigs, Cows, Camels, Elephants and Monkeys. We really can't work out the cow, goat and pig situation as they just seem to randomly wander the streets in pursuit of food scraps - god only knows if anyone owns them...?

Next blog to follow: Delhi