Thursday 11 December 2008

Gorgeous Goa part II

Well, we've spent the past four nights staying at the Sea Paradise resort in Mandrem which probably isn't far off paradise.

The accommodation was probably a bit more than we were expecting at 1000 RP a night (fourteen pounds) but a) prices have probably gone up in the 3 years since my lonely planet was printed b) it's still damn cheap and c)there are hardly any tourists right now (the taxi driver we spoke to told us that at the same time last year he worked flat out all day/night and when we went in his taxi, we were the first customers for 3 days).

Anyway, we manage to barter the accommodation down to 900 RP a night and are quite happy with that.

We spend our days rolling out of bed to the scrummy breakfasts and then ramble a few steps onto the glorious sandy beach with bath-warm water.

the food at the resort has been amazing and with an average cost of two pounds for a main course it makes for a very cheap few days.

There is a real family atmosphere about the small resort and all the staff (and dogs) are super friendly. Blackie in particular (a lab/collie cross) took a liking to us and used to lay by our table at dinner and follow us onto the beach when we went.

Our other friend was Fred the frog who took up home either on or in the toilet which was quite funny! He was only the size of my thumb so not likely to cause any trouble.

It's amazing how time flys (although unfortunately I've lost my watch so have to keep asking Ian what the time is!)

After saying goodbye to Sea Paradise, Ian has swept me away to the very North of Goa to spoil me for two nights at the exclusive Terekhol Fort Resort.

The Fort Tiracol Heritage Hotel is situated inside a fort with a beautiful chapel inside overlooking the sea. The hotel has been featured by the Guardian, and it's easy to see why - it's a really unique place to stay with stunning views of the beach from the fort windows and rooftop restaurant.

The fort is reached by a small ferry that takes five minutes to cross, and then there is a 2km taxi ride to the fort. The same ferry takes you from the fort to the gorgeous Kerim beach opposite.

It's so remote, it doesn't even feel odd when the power keeps going out!

It's all really beautiful - I've never stayed anywhere so unusual.

From the Rooftop restaurant at breakfast you can watch dolphins playing out at sea, jumping and diving...it's amazing!

One morning we were joined by a school trip party who found us fascinating and we found ourselves having several photographs taken...you feel like a celebrity here!!! We even got interviewed when one of the teachers started asking our views on the terrorist activity here and how it could be stopped!

The whole fort seems to be streaming with monkeys which is really funny! It was a bit of a shock though when we thought we saw a monkey walk out from under our bed and onto the balcony!

Kerim beach is a long sandy beach with amazing surf. It's an almost empty beach...I think we counted about another 6 tourists all day on the whole beach! There's a tiny restaurant shack which serves beer for about a pound, coke for 40 pence and a bowl of noodles for one pound twenty five!

We struck up a deal with the owner of the restaurant on a taxi back to Goa Airport. Our hotel wanted 2000 RP and the restaurant did it for 1200 RP! Bargain!

We have now left Goa. After an hour flight we arrived back in Mumbai. We decided to get a Tuk Tuk from the airport who said he could take us to our hotel for 200 rupees. It sounded like a bargain as we paid 550 in a taxi last time.

We had been in the vehicle for about a minute when he said he couldn't go into the fort area so we would have to get a taxi for the last bit. As our hotel isn't far from there we decided that was still OK. Two minutes later and he's pulled over at the side of a motorway by a taxi and trying to rip us off for 200 rupees when the meter hadn't even reached 30 !! Ian took control and gave the guy a piece of his mind and we walked away after giving the guy 30 rupees and trying to find a taxi.

The journey back to the hotel from the airport in traffic takes about an hour and a half, and we found a lovely taxi driver who took us for 300 rupees so we actually ended up doing well in the end!

We've both said that work feels a lifetime ago, so this holiday has probably done us both the world of good :-)